Jim Meehan’s latest, The Bartender’s Pantry, is the perfect mix of celebration and admonition
I’m going to start this newsletter with a detour into one of the best shows airing currently: Industry. For those of you that don’t know, Industry feels like the lovechild of Billions and Gossip Girl with a side helping of Skins. It follows the lives of young finance professionals in London and is vaguely futuristic and hugely entertaining and the music supervisor, Nathan Micay, has great taste.
I could go on and on about this show and about how a key character from season two is played by the main character from Cher’s Believe music video but where this connects to my erstwhile boss and forever mentor Jim Meehan’s latest book The Bartender’s Pantry is the running theme of season three that posits that ESG as an investment strategy is basically bullshit. I don’t want to get into too many spoilers for this season but running through the episodes is a tension between characters who think that ESG investing is ultimately good business (ie. it will maximize return for their clients) and others who think it’s a useless fad and the only goal of investing is to make as much money as you possibly can as quickly as you can.
The Bartender’s Pantry, written by Jim Meehan with Emma Janzen featuring design work by Bart Sasso, is certainly one of the best cocktail books of 2024. Even without reading it, the strength of Jim’s first two, The PDT Cocktail Book and Meehan’s Manual, (plus the strength of Emma’s CV) would make labeling any this work excellent a foregone conclusion. The book is structured around the many ancillary ingredients that bartenders have access to in service of their drinkmaking: milk, sugar, tea, and so on.
Each chapter is lovingly devoted to the diverse manifestations of the ingredient and the creative ways that bartenders can leverage them in drinks. (And yes, I do mean bartenders. The book is very much written to the person who spends their professional life behind the bar.) The Bartender’s Pantry sits among—while standing above—the many cocktail books that provide useful information about the many components available to the modern bartender alongside instructions (recipes) for how to use those ingredients to make joy-inducing cocktails, but I was struck by the shadow the book cast over each ingredient it featured.
“There is no ethical consumption in capitalism” has become a quippy social media slogan used to critique the exploitative and extractive eco-political system in which we all must survive. Although the phrase is a blunt instrument, it perfectly describes the subtext of The Bartender’s Pantry. Take, for instance, the chapter on sugar. In it, we learn about sugar as a culinary ingredient and then are brought along to consider sugar as a not only a product of colonialism, slavery, economic imperialism but also a key factor in our widening obesity crisis.
I interviewed Jim for a recent episode of my podcast, Drink What You Want, and we spoke at length about his new book and how—at least as far as he and I are concerned—the era of guzzling artisanal Daiquiris is over. Instead of trying to make drinks cheaper (or healthier) so we can continue at the same pace, we should instead be focusing on quality instead of quantity. One drink, regardless of the harmfulness of its ingredients to one’s health or its environmental impact, is most likely better than four drinks made with ingredients that purport an elevated virtue. (But also, hey, alcohol is probably really bad for you! But you probably already knew this!)
I am reminded of an incident many years ago where it was discovered that a certain rum producer used sugar cane that was harvested by people who experienced elevated levels of dehydration-related kidney disease. A prominent bartender took to the internet to register his displeasure with the brand and posted a photo of dozens of bottles of the rum poured out in his bar’s sink. I shared this news with a colleague and she connected me with her sister who worked with an NGO that supported Nicaraguan sugar cane farmers and she shared with me something startling. The farmers in question were being diagnosed with this kidney disease BECAUSE they are relatively better off than other sugar cane farmers. They had access to medical care that was able to diagnose the disease therefore “raising” the levels of the disease found in this population. The disease was also exacerbated by cigarette smoking, which was a sign that these farmers had enough disposable income to spend on cigarettes. The performative action of dumping gallons of rum (that was already paid for) was good to raise awareness of the issue but was likely pointed at the wrong target. And my stance on destroying a consumable product that you’re already paid for in the name of virtue is that it is silly and if anything a betrayal of the work already performed. [And for this newsletter I did some digging and found some updates to this story—we should definitely be pressuring sugar cane producers to improve working conditions.]
When it comes to the supply chain, the story is always much more complicated than it first appears and trying to consume your way out of a consumption crisis is inherently self-defeating. Plastic recycling, carbon credits, “better for you” alcohol, even the idea of an individual “carbon footprint” are at worst literal gambits run by fossil fuel producers to throw us off their scent and at best are marginal improvements that do little to disrupt the underlying systems that are causing so much harm.
The only way out of this mess is to consume less, and The Bartender’s Pantry is a blueprint for how to do that. Like the characters on Industry who think they can invest their way out of a climate crisis while still taking private jets, the answer is to opt out of as much harm as we can. We need to be aware of the harms that our consumption causes and with that recognition, make better choices. Under our current economic system the only goal of publicly traded companies is to maximize shareholder value, and the way most companies do this is by selling a product for the highest possible price while reducing the costs associated with making that product. Environmental damage, poverty, and declining public health are negative externalities that offload the costs onto those a) not responsible and b) not as able to adapt.
It is paralytically overwhelming to consider one’s personal role overhauling our economic and political systems in order to reduce inequality and give humanity a chance to survive the climate crisis. And one of the more insidious aspects of neoliberalism is how it individualizes our problems and downplays the importance of collective impact. For instance, asking New Yorkers to turn off their ACs during peak times when Times Square is blazing and empty office buildings are lit 24-7.
But!
I do think there are things we can do. My suggestion would be to get involved in local and state politics and work to get socialists, or at least candidates that prioritize collective action towards climate justice, elected. I know that individually reducing our consumption will not save the planet while billionaires casually crisscross the globe in private jets. But when it comes to consumption—particularly a substance as harmful as alcohol—the macro choice to consume less also has an extremely local effect on our bodies in the form of improved health (and probably also finances).
The message of The Bartender’s Pantry is quality, not quantity. We should always keep in mind the true impact of our actions, however distantly they may be felt. Recognizing and honoring the work that went in to creating the things that promote joy in our lives can deepen our pleasure and enhance our health. It might seem helpless, but we have to start somewhere.
Ok so what else is going on…
-Youngmi’s memoir is coming out in November and you should a) preorder it and b) buy a ticket to one of the many events she has scheduled. The one in New York on November 14th I will be interviewing her and also making drinks for the afterparty! The Q&A is free, RSVP HERE.
And I started writing for Fast Company and my first piece was about liquor giant Brown-Forman walking back their DEI commitments and also pulling out of HRC’s Corporate Equity Index. Read it HERE.
I also interview Dave Arnold about his new bar, Bar Contra. Check it out HERE. Also for Punch I have a piece about the very obscure and puzzlingly named Bonsai Margarita. Read it HERE.
Catch up on my various podcasts, Drink What You Want and Giving Up.
And lastly, thank you to everyone who left reviews for Drink What You Want! It really means a lot.
And I have watched this roughly 5,000 times since it came out last week.
Now here’s a picture of my cats