Bartenders like John deBary, author of the aptly-named Drink What You Want, recognize that quality drinks can also be vividly colored, elaborately adorned, and utterly biteless. When deBary first created his creamy, umbrella-garnished cocktail, ‘The Shark,’he realized blueness could be used not just as a gimmick, but as an active aesthetic choice: “It’s not subversively blue; it’s intuitively blue,” he wrote in Punch. “It’s better because it’s blue.”